A parranda or trulla is the boricua version of a Christmas Carol. Friends and families gather in front of a house – usually after 10:00 p.m. – with instruments like panderos, maracas, güiros, cuatros and guitars to sing aguinaldos (traditional Christmas songs).
The idea is to surprise the household, so the parranderos round up as quietly as possible and then break into song with the intention of waking people up with joyful and jubilant music. It is tradition for the household to offer refreshments and then join the group to bring the party to the next house. Sometimes, parrandas can last until sunrise.
Puerto Ricans usually put up their Christmas trees and decorations by Thanksgiving and don’t take them down until mid-January, so the island feels especially magical during the holiday season. With town squares and houses lit up with Santa Clauses and snowflakes as well as local designs like jibaritos, Puerto Rico turns into a tropical winter wonderland where every corner is a photo opportunity.
For most Puerto Ricans, Christmas Eve or Nochebuena trumps Christmas Day. This is the night where family and friends gather for a traditional dinner, exchange gifts, go out on parrandas, or take a drive to enjoy the Christmas decorations around town.
Many Puerto Ricans will attend a midnight mass known as Misa de Gallo, where they welcome Christmas as a commemoration of the birth of Jesus. Some churches even reenact the Nativity scene.
The classic holiday menu consists of arroz con gandules (rice with pigeon peas), lechón asado (spit-roasted pork) and pasteles (tamale-like patties of green banana and meat). Side dishes might include potato salad, pasta salad or morcilla (rice-stuffed blood sausages).
The traditional Christmas dessert is tembleque, a coconut-base pudding topped with cinnamon and, instead of eggnog, we have coquito, a coconut-base thick drink usually served in shot glasses.
Three Kings Day
On January 6th, Puerto Rico celebrates El Día de Reyes or Epiphany, a commemoration of the visit the Three Wise Men made after Jesus was born. The night before, children around Puerto Rico gather grass or hay in shoeboxes and place them under their beds for the Magi’s camels or horses in exchange for presents. For over 135 years, the town of Juana Díaz has celebrated a festival and parade that gathers over 25,000 people for the occasion.
The eight days after Three Kings Day are known in Puerto Rico as Las Octavitas, an extension of Christmas were people keep throwing parties and going on parrandas. Originally, the Octavitas were parties of a religious nature and were used to glorify the Magi and Jesus with songs. Usually, this period ends with Puerto Rico’s most vibrant and colorful festival: Las fiestas de la Calle San Sebastián or SanSe. This music-filled cultural jubilee marks the official end of the holiday season.